The Quiet Coast: Driving Italy's Cilento
South of the Amalfi crush, the Cilento coast unfolds in turquoise coves, hilltop villages, and trattorias where lunch lasts until the light goes amber.
Everyone goes to Amalfi. They sit in traffic on a cliffside road and pay forty euros for a pizza margherita and call it a holiday. An hour south, the Cilento begins, and almost no one is there.
We rented a small car in Salerno and drove south for a week with no real itinerary, only a vague rule: never drive after lunch. It turned out to be the best rule we have ever made.
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